Excerpts from Barcelona - 03
A weekly glimpse into my Catalan adventures
My week started off with another museum visit. On Saturday, I started my day by visiting the Mercat dels Encants, a multi-story flea market selling everything from clothing and antique furniture to mattresses. It was absolutely packed with people.
Mercat dels Encants on a Saturday morning.
After making the rounds and seeing what it was like, I headed out and stumbled upon an absolutely delicious Xurreria. I won’t lie, at first I looked at the stand and thought “this close to the market, it must definitely be a tourist trap” but I turned around to catch a second look and noticed that locals I had just passed were heading that way. The man at Xurreria J. Alpuente - and the older gentleman he was chatting with - recommended that I try the xuxo (often spelled xuixo) de crema, doused in sugar.
He stated that it is a “classic” specifically if it was my first time trying one.
Well, it’s definitely a classic for a reason. The fried dough was light and fluffy, and the cream inside was smooth and rich but not too sweet. It may be one of my favourite pastries I’ve tried so far in Barcelona.
I spent the rest of the afternoon with my host family, having a picnic by the beach, later followed by a visit to the Museum of Natural Sciences; a really well thought out museum with a large collection of rocks, minerals, and various species of animals and plants, and with highlights on the Catalonian ecosystem and biodiversity.
Sunday afternoon I visited Amazons. The Ancestral Future at the Barcelona Centre for Contemporary Culture. This was one of my highlights of the week, and you can read more about it below.
The rest of my week was pretty low-key, due to the incredible amounts of rain we received. Regardless, I enjoyed a beautiful run up to Mirador Joan Sales, which was one of my to-do’s for the week. The route I took brought me uphill through a residential neighbourhood and up through a sort of trail to the lookout point, which is situated just above Parc Güell.
It doesn’t allow a view over the park, but the view over the city is stunning.
I also got lucky and was able to experience it on a clear day, meaning I also caught a glimpse of the sea.
This week, I also met up with a few girls from an online girls community here in Barcelona. We met at Cafe Cometa, a specialty coffee shop in Eixample, acquainted ourselves, and spent a couple of hours discussing travelling, life abroad, and why we came to Barcelona. It was so nice to speak to people who are also new to the city (and also to have a conversation with people who aren’t five years old!)
I had my first filter coffee since arriving in Barcelona! I was initially going to go for a cortado, but after seeing the pink Moccamaster on the bar, I was swayed.
I didn’t get the origin of the specific coffee - I was nervous and forgot to ask. However, it was a very smooth and balanced coffee from Cafes El Magnifico, a cafe on my list… which just makes me more excited to visit their location.
The last thing I got up to this week was visiting the Museum of the History of Catalonia’s permanent exhibition. A very thorough, multi-level exhibition covering everything from Antiquity to Catalonia’s fight for independence, in chronological order. The exhibition had a ton of interactive features, like light-up maps and radio recordings from the 60s. My visit lasted just about two hours, though I did rush through some parts because I was being followed by a group of school children on a museum visit! I will definitely be returning to see their temporary exhibition, On the run. Refugees.
This week’s highlights
Amazons. The Ancestral Future
On show at the CCCB, Amazons. The Ancestral Future is probably one of the best exhibitions I’ve seen in a few years. I attended on a Sunday afternoon, since it was free as of 3:00 p.m., however, I do recommend booking a ticket in advance on the website. From beginning to end, the exhibition explores the intersections of the Amazon’s biodiversity and people, both in the past and today.
The curators and artists have done an excellent job at highlighting the importance of the rainforest, the crucial role it plays in our day-to-day, and potential outcomes - as well as proposed solutions - for the future of the Amazon.
Nomad Coffee Bar
Nomad Coffee Bar (Passatge Sert) was an incredible experience. The prices range according to the beans you choose for your espresso or filter, and you can choose the beverage you’d like. I opted for a cortado made with their Ethiopia Tomas Ganamo, a single-origin espresso with notes of apricot and raw cocoa.
By far, the best espresso I’ve had so far in Barcelona. I will definitely be returning to try some of their other espresso options, and I’m eager to try their other location, Frutas Selectas, situated in Poblenou.
A glimpse at next week…
Due to the rain, I still didn’t get to go on a free walking tour. So, weather permitting, joining a free walking tour of Barcelona. Right now I’m eyeing Luca’s Hidden Old Barcelona: the Gothic and El Born Tour, Gastronomic Gems of Barcelona, and Free Tour of the Old Town of Barcelona.
Running along Carretera de les Aigües, a trail I ran on during my first week in Barcelona. I’d like to go further down this trail and see what the views are like.
Visit Cafes El Magnifico. After tasting one of their roasts this week, I’m very eager to visit their location in Ciutat Vella!
Despite the rain, I had a pretty packed week. I do think the gloomy weather is helping me take it a little slower and settle into a routine. Incorporating daily runs, getting into the swing of school drop-off and pick-up, and going out of my way to socialize and meet new people is helping make Barcelona feel a little more like “home.”